Although often seen as frivolous or ostentatious, fashion was essential during World War II. While much of the fashion of the era was driven by necessity, there were also untold examples of utility in the clothing of the time. From simple cotton smocks to those iconic two-piece suits, this article looks at how fashion in World War II was both a critical necessity as well as a way to express personality and individuality.
1. Fashion During WW2: War-time Utility Chic
The fashion industry in the 1940s simply could not ignore the era’s dramatic WWII context. Manufacturing of luxury goods was reduced for war needs and even though clothing was still produced it was often rationed. For the everyday wardrobe, a more utilitarian style emerged that has since been termed “war-time utility chic”.
Many of the most popular clothes featured simple construction and practical silhouettes, including straighter skirts that extended just below the knee, fuller trousers, and shoulder pads and pleats for accentuating the figure. Practicality was the key, but materials were still chosen with care, often lightweight fabrics such as wool, cotton, linen, and rayon blends with interesting weave. The overall look often echoed military uniforms without being too literal.
- Button down shirts – a pre-war style returned to the shelves as a versatile item of clothing for women during the war.
- Broad-brimmed hats – an essential item for those working in farms and outdoor activities, but during the war most women chose it as a fashion statement, usually decorated with a large flower or other bright accent.
- Button-up bras and girdles – designed slim around the waist and hips, knitted to fit perfectly, these items became fashionable among all young women in the 1940s.
In addition to clothing, women also found ways to make their faces pop. Inspired by the glamorous starlets of the movies, they curled and waved their hair to create the popular “Victory Rolls,” applied heavy mascara and nail polishes, and painted their lips in vivid shades of red.
2. How Key Practicalities Shaped the Look of the 1940s
Beyond the fashion trends of the 1940s, practical considerations had an enormous impact on the way that people dressed. The need for economy of clothing during WWII, when fabrics were rationed, meant that utility became a guiding principle for clothing design. Even after the end of wartime, plenty of practical lessons had been deeply ingrained in the fabrics and methods of clothing creation.
Fabrics: There was a huge decrease in the supply and production of natural fabrics, which pushed people to develop new materials that were more cost-effective and easy to find. Wool and cotton were still king, but gabardine, rayon, and velvet provided more affordable solutions for those on a budget, while polyester was introduced as a means of creating durable, wrinkle-resistant clothing.
Colors: It’s true that the 1940s saw bright, fun colors, especially in the early years, but the day-to-day look of ’40s clothing was rather muted, for a reason. As many everyday materials were used to make equipment for the war effort, it was more practical to use large amounts of a dull color then go out of your way to get a brighter shade. This was particularly true for skirts and coats which tended to be gray, brown, and navy.
Repurposing: In order to get the most out of a garment, they usually needed to serve multiple purposes. Ruffles on frocks and necklines were added to allow for greater versatility. Skirts and blouses were designed to be easily removed for laundering, doubling as a sleeping gown. Blazers and long coats were adapted as lighter weight rain jackets. Dresses were often designed with a detachable belt or sash to mix up your styling options.
The 1940s was a time of practicality when it came to fashion. The reality of the war and the rationing of materials steered people away from luxury fabrics towards more abundant materials like gabardine, rayon and polyester. Colors were mostly muted due to the lack of dying materials, while blazers, blouses and skirts were often designed with versatility in mind so as to get the most out of the garment. The practical restrictions of the 40s inadvertently created a style that has now become emblematic of classic chic.
3. Constraints on Fabrics Lead to Economical Upcycling
The wider world of design, not limited to upcycling, is often daunted by the constraints of fabric. By nature, fabric has a finite lifespan and type of use and these limitations often put a damper on the design of eco-friendly items. Many designers find that when it comes to respecting the environment they are bound to a certain set of resources and therefore are unable to complete their desired project.
Luckily, with upcycling, we are able to break these fabric limits to create something new and innovative. Upcycling allows us to piece together fabrics of different textures to create an entirely new concept that is unexpected yet respect the boundaries of fabric. Applying some creativity, we can make amazing products with the fabric at hand without compromising on environmental responsibility.
Using minimal fabric resources has many economic benefits too. Rather than investing in expensive tools and materials, upcycling provides designer solutions that are easier on the wallet. The use of existing fabrics and other materials allows the upcycler to experiment with their ideas and still end up with a usable product. Not to mention, upcycling makes use of already available materials, avoiding unnecessary purchase costs and resource depletion.
Benefits of Upcycling
- Allows creative design within the existing fabric limits
- Affordable solution with existing resources
- Environmentally friendly way to create
- Turn something out of use from something of use
4. Espionage Inspires Subdued Styles of Stealth
Timeless apparel and styles that incorporate military espionage can promote subtle tactical modulations that cushion the jaggedness of the everyday. Dark, muted colors with neutral undertones allow agents of the night to stay inconspicuous in the shadows.
Clothing Items Inspired by Stealth Tactics:
- Loose-fitting and draping coats
- Structured cargo pants
- High-top leather boots
- Dark eyewear
A hat or mask can be the perfect finishing touch for a sophisticated spy appeal. Multiple pockets to store gadgets and useful accessories are also necessary. Keep the clothing simple and refined so it appears inconspicuous. The key is to blend in while also having the presence to stand out from the background.
Materials and fabrics that are lightweight and waterproof provide an extra layer of protection against the elements. Navy and black tones create the most optimal uniform without being too flashy. Fleece jackets are also a great option and can be utilized to create a light and airy look. Fabrics that are structured, snug and toned down can maintain a sleekly casual demeanor- perfect for traversing any cold-war terrain.
5. Tailors’ Necessity is the Mother of Invention
Tailors often face complicated problems while creating a unique outfit that is exclusive to their client. But rather than shrivelling in the face of difficulty, tailors have a special way of tackling it head-on.
Adaptability is a crucial skill of a tailor. In order to accommodate to a customer’s particular needs, tailors must explore different approaches and techniques. This requires flexibility and a willingness to experiment with the cloth.
Resourcefulness is another skill that tailors rely on. Sometimes the raw materials are sparse, if access to them is limited. Without sufficient resources for a product, a tailor must get creative. This usually leads to unique creations that are born out of necessity. A tailor’s problem-solving ability is put to the test as they improve the design of the garment.
Tailors must use their wits in order to achieve a desired result. Innovation is the final skill, and it’s what makes them so accomplished at their trade. When the needed parts for a garment are in short supply, a tailor must think outside the box and come up with solutions. This approach can create aesthetics, solutions, and designs that are truly one of a kind.
Through these three pillars, tailors must make use of their creativity to deliver. It’s this mixture of ingenuity and adaptability that allows them to continually perfect their craft and gives them the title of master tailors.
The decades of the 20th Century hold many lessons to learn from, and fashion during World War II is no exception. The compression of utility and necessity into clothing of the era calls for creativity, simplicity and a stronger conscience for the future. By heeding these lessons, we can continue to design a fashionable future that is practical, sustainable and proud.
